Anticipation for a winter vacation: thrilled by ice baths, reindeer encounters, and aurora sightings, I long to revisit this winter wonderland.

Heading to the Arctic Circle? Here's my wild ride through Northern Sweden!

Winter jacket, heavy sweater, sturdy boots, and my camera - that's all I needed for my epic voyage to the icy circles of the Far North. But the stunning landscapes, the eight seasons, and the heartwarming locals in Lapland caught me by surprise.

April, a time when spring is in full bloom in Berlin, found me heading to the frigid Arctic Circle. First stop, a sleepy Northern Swedish airport - Luleå. The first sight, upon exiting the terminal, is a sculpture that reminds art hopeless cases like me of a french fry oozing gold. Named "Kallax Gallax," created by artist Bjørn Erling Evensen, it shines (and warms the cockles of your heart) in the snowy expanse that awaits. Its purpose? A beacon against the cold, dark, and snow that call the shots in these chilly climes.

But I'd been sold short by Christmas movies and Google searches. All I envisioned was a barren, snow-covered wasteland. But the folks in these parts? They slide right between Winter (Dálvvie), Late Winter (Gijrradaálvvie), Spring (Gijrra), Early Summer (Gijrragiessie), Summer (Giessie), Late Summer (Tjakttjagiessie), Autumn (Tjakkttja), and Early Winter (Tjakttjadaálvvie). This eight-season system harks back to the Sami people, the indigenous inhabitants of these lands, and their nomadic lifestyle in harmony with the reindeer.

At the beginning of April, the light still clings to the day, yet snowstorms still paint the postcard-perfect landscape. My ride through the wilderness painted a picture of classic Scandinavian charm with cozy, red cottages nestled in dense forests.

Storforsen Hotel sat in the eye of the storm, a secluded establishment boasting breathtaking views of the continent's largest waterfall. Yet, the deep silence was broken by the thunderous roar of the rapids below, surging with glacier water even in the depths of winter. The falls held allure for otters and locals alike, while summertime saw visitors flocking for swimming, SUP, and camping.

The Storforsen waterfall itself served a practical purpose in the past, as it caught ice floes that fluid icy transports from the river were utilized for transporting timber. But the old ways hold a cautionary tale - the ice floes have taken a tumble, and the snow is melting earlier each year under the weight of human influence.

The Sami and their Four-Legged Pals

The eight seasons of the Arctic Circle mirror the daily life of the Sami people and their reindeer, so I set out to meet them in person. I was warmly welcomed by Sami Anna at the Arctic Circle, who greeted me with a belly-wobbling laugh. She led me to her winter quarters in Jokkmokk, where the fires were crackling, and her reindeer huddled together in the tent.

Anna, like her ancestors before her, protected the injured, weak, and ailing reindeer in her care. I met Snowflake, the camera-friendly resident, and other shy herd-mates who, like her, had found a safe haven in Anna's lap. Her homestead was no touristic farce but a genuine glimpse into her life, a lifeline that holds fast against the erosion of Sami customs and protections.

You see, the Sami people are still not legally recognized as they should be by the Swedish government and remain vulnerable to racism and displacement. The name "Lapp" is offensive to Anna's ears; she prefers to refer to this region as "Sápmi." So let us respect the indigenous people and their traditions, honoring their sacred bond with the reindeer that has continued for generations.

Swedish Saunas, Arctic Spas, and the Swirling Lights

The Storforsen Hotel called, so I left the warmth of Anna's tent for the hot saunas that beckoned from the hotel. A daring dip in the icy waters of the Storforsen followed, accompanied by a bracing schnapps. But the real treat was a taste of the Northern Lights, hidden within the velvet sky even in April. A green stripe danced against the backdrop of the Arctic dark, mesmerizing in its elusive beauty.

Driving at the Arctic Circle

Before I bring this ride to an end, know this: Driving in Northern Sweden can be an adventure, depending on the season. Ice-coated roads and speed cameras lurk in hidden corners, so abide by the speed limits, traveler!

And finally, at the Arctic Falls Proving Grounds, the labyrinth of tracks whispered a tale of winter wonderland. My heart raced as I took control of a Kia EV9, skidding and drifting on icy lakes, proving the importance of ESP, ABS, and snow modes for controlling your car in the icy climes of Sweden.

As I prepare to bid adieu to the mystical shores of Luleå, my heart feels heavy, but my memories lingering. Eight seasons, eight new adventures await the next traveler who ventures to the far reaches of Scandinavia. And as the locals say, "Hejdå Sverige, vi ses snart!" Until next time, Sweden!

What surprised me in Lapland was not just the stunning landscapes but also the eight seasons and the warm-hearted locals who slide between them, following an age-old Sami lifestyle.
Upon exiting the Luleå airport, I was greeted by a unique sculpture named "Kallax Gallax," symbolizing a beacon against the cold, dark, and snow that characterize the Arctic Circle.
I never expected to find personal growth adventures in Northern Sweden, but meeting Sami Anna and witnessing her respect for the reindeer offered a glimpse into a culture that continues to face challenges, including racism and displacement.
Budget-conscious adventurers should note the importance of driving safely in Northern Sweden, obeying speed limits and understanding the dangers of icy roads and speed cameras.
For those interested in lifestyle and education, exploring Swedish saunas and Arctic spas provides a unique cultural experience, followed by a daring dip in icy waters and a bracing schnapps.
Culture enthusiasts might marvel at the Northern Lights, hidden within the velvet sky even in April, while sports buffs can challenge themselves at the Arctic Falls Proving Grounds with a Kia EV9, testing its snow modes and control systems on icy lakes.
As I prepare to leave the mystical shores of Luleå, I am reminded that there are still eight seasons and eight adventures waiting for those who venture to the far reaches of Scandinavia, and I look forward to the possibility of returning one day.