Artisans in Berlin working to revolutionize age-old craftsmanship in jewelry-making
Goldsmiths in Berlin Embrace Sustainability and Innovation Amidst Challenges
In the heart of Berlin, a vibrant community of goldsmiths is adapting to the evolving landscape of their craft. The duo behind BAZK Berlin, Bert van Wijk and Angela Gomez, envision a future where goldsmithing is deeply rooted in sustainability, ethically-sourced materials, and responsible craftsmanship.
Amidst this shift, Berlin's goldsmiths face challenges such as technological adaptation, market changes, and economic pressures. They are incorporating digital tools like computer-aided design (CAD) and 3D printing into their workflow, balancing traditional craftsmanship with new technological tools, and reconsidering their supply chains to meet the growing demand for sustainable materials.
Despite these challenges, Berlin's goldsmiths are adapting by integrating digital design and production techniques alongside traditional handcrafting, emphasizing unique, custom-made pieces, and engaging with contemporary design schools and craft organizations. They are also participating in exhibitions and cultural projects to elevate public appreciation for their craft.
One such goldsmith is Anna Butwell, founder of Metal Atelier. After teaching herself various goldsmithing techniques, she started her business in 2018, specializing in rock'n'roll jewelry. Her collection includes stacker rings, pendants, and jewelry featuring chains, sapphires, and diamonds.
Johanna Gauder, another experienced goldsmith, founded her eponymous brand in 2015. She lists inflation, increasing costs of production, and a lack of skilled professionals as contributing factors to the craft's difficulties. Her pieces, known for their rough finish reminiscent of time-worn concrete, can be found on johannagauder.com and Instagram @johannagauder.
Berlin's jewellery-making community is growing, with more independent jewellers offering workshops and organizing events to share their knowledge. However, the number of goldsmith apprentices in Berlin has slumped from 50 in 2005 to 28 in 2022.
The craft of goldsmithing in Germany, once a protected title, has faced significant challenges over the past two decades. According to the German Confederation of Skilled Crafts (ZDH), the number of gold- and silversmithing apprentices has decreased significantly, from 1,444 in 1998 to only 448 apprentices in 2022 - a 69% decrease.
Despite these challenges, the spirit of goldsmithing in Berlin remains undeterred. Artisans continue to blend tradition with innovation, emphasize craftsmanship, and leverage educational and artistic networks to navigate a complex environment marked by technological change, market volatility, and evolving cultural values.
References: [1] BAZK Berlin: https://bazkberlin.com/ [2] Johanna Gauder: https://johannagauder.com/ [3] Metal Atelier: https://metalatelier.de/ [4] Varvara Krotkova: https://www.instagram.com/varvara.krotkova/ [5] German Confederation of Skilled Crafts (ZDH): https://www.zhk.de/
Goldsmiths in Berlin are expanding their craft beyond traditional methods by integrating digital design and production techniques, such as CAD and 3D printing, into their work. They are also focusing on lifestyle sectors like fashion-and-beauty, home-and-garden, and education-and-self-development, using learning opportunities to help their businesses grow.
The growing jewellery-making community in Berlin offers workshops and events to share knowledge, hoping to increase the number of potential apprentices in a field that has seen a significant decrease in young learners. This decline, from 50 apprentices in 2005 to 28 in 2022, as reported by the German Confederation of Skilled Crafts (ZDH), highlights the importance of these educational resources.
