Struggles faced by designers from working-class backgrounds in the fashion industry?
In a groundbreaking move, Laura Weir, the new CEO of the British Fashion Council (BFC), has announced a series of initiatives aimed at increasing accessibility and inclusivity in the British fashion industry.
Weir, who took up her position in 2021, has put inclusivity at the heart of her mission. She aims to make British fashion more accessible, so that opportunity is based on talent, not on means.
One of Weir's key initiatives is the launch of a program to bring designers into schools, inspiring students from all backgrounds and fostering a more diverse and inclusive industry. She has also waived the high participation fees for designers at London Fashion Week, a move that will make it more affordable for emerging designers to showcase their work.
Weir is also extending the NewGen program, which supports working-class and ethnically diverse fashion designers facing financial and systemic barriers, to 2029. She has identified challenges faced by these designers, including a lack of funding, expensive studio hire, and high catwalk show costs, and aims to alleviate these pressures.
The UK's arts industry, including fashion, has long been dominated by those from affluent backgrounds. A recent report found that almost a third of major arts leaders were educated privately. Weir's initiatives are seen as a step towards levelling the playing field for independent designers.
Patrick McDowell, a Liverpool-born designer with celebrity fans, is one such designer who has benefited from Weir's initiatives. McDowell credits their art teacher for encouraging them to pursue fashion design despite financial challenges. They financed their collection by using leftover Burberry stock through an internship and received a £4,000 hardship fund grant from the BFC.
Rosie Wrighting, a Labour Party politician, has applauded Weir's initiatives, stating that they have the potential to make a creative career feel less distant. Christopher Shannon, a designer from a working-class background, faced micro-aggressions and a tacit expectation of gratitude when winning awards or grants. He views Weir's initiatives with optimism, stating that there's an intention for it to be better.
Some London-based brands like Rejina Pyo and Stefan Cooke have pulled back on fashion shows and opted for pop-ups and community-led events, a move that has been welcomed by Weir. Fashion design students are required to independently source materials for their final ready-to-wear collection, which can be costly. Weir's initiatives are expected to provide much-needed relief for these students.
Living costs for a year in London, where many of the UK's best arts schools are located, are estimated to run over £20,000 ($27,126). The current tuition fee for a standard full-time degree course in the UK is £9,535 ($12,932) per academic year. Weir's initiatives, which include connecting with students directly and waiving fees for BFC member designers at London Fashion Week, are expected to make a significant difference in making British fashion more accessible.
Weir's initiatives are a testament to her commitment to making the fashion industry more inclusive and accessible. British fashion wasn't always inaccessible, with internationally acclaimed designers like Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and Vivienne Westwood coming from non-affluent backgrounds. Weir's initiatives are a step towards returning to those roots, making British fashion an industry open to talent from all backgrounds.
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